Spain’s “Casas Rurales” are something like the Italian Agroturismes—country farms that offer lodging and food for travelers who are willing to give up some creature comforts in exchange for authenticity. Mas Garganta is a gem among them, with simple but tasteful rooms in a rustic masía (Catalan farmhouse) tucked into a green valley in the Garrotxa. The views from the porticoed terrace that serves as the main dining room are astoundingly peaceful. (La Garrotxa is near Girona and in the foothills of the Pyrenees, about a 1.5hr drive from Barcelona.)
Mas Garganta’s proprietress, Inés Puigdevall is no stranger to good food—her sister runs the Michelin-starred Restaurant Les Cols, nearby. But Inés doesn’t get fancy. She makes suppers based on what’s growing in her garden and on neighboring farms. For example, this aromatic rosemary soup was a first course, then lambchops, slathered in garlic, parsley, and olive oil, grilled over a wood fire in her big stone hearth. Her recipe is very simple, but the rosemary and cornmeal add up to a wonderfully satisfying little bowl of soup.
Rosemary Soup for 4 people
1 quart good chicken stock*
4 small branches fresh rosemary (each about 4” long)
1/4 cup stone ground cornmeal
good kosher or sea salt & freshly ground pepper to taste
Bring the chicken stock to a rapid boil in a saucepan. Make a rosemary “tea” in the hot stock: drop in the rosemary and give the broth a stir to submerge the stems thoroughly; cover the saucepan tightly, turn off the flame, and let the rosemary steep for about 20 minutes. Remove the rosemary and discard it, taste the broth and season well with salt. Bring the broth to a boil again, stir in the cornmeal. Simmer and stir for about 5 minutes. Finish with a grind or two of pepper.
My friend Gracie, who is a great cook, has cheated very successfully on this recipe using “Better than Bouillon.”
